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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.